A Legacy of Versatility: Pairing Provençal Rosé Wines with Diverse Local Flavors, pt. 2

Chef/Owner Carl Schaubhut of DTB in New Orleans, LA

by: Lisa M. Airey

Photos by: Chris Granger

To celebrate and display the diversity of the rosé from Provence, The Clever Root challenged four superstar chefs from across the country to develop signature dishes to pair with these pink sippers. From Cajun cooking in New Orleans, to celebrating the bounty of the Pacific Northwest, these chefs pushed their palates and pairing abilities to the max.

We will be sharing these incredible recipes with you all month, and our second stop brings us to DTB in New Orleans, Louisiana where Chef/Owner Carl Schaubhut has concocted corn-fried catfish served with Château de L’Escarelle Les Deux Anges Rosé, sugarcane pots de crème served with Château Beaulieu Rosé and andouille pâté served with Domaines Ott BY.OTT Rosé. See the first in the series here.

Carl Schaubhut, Chef/Owner of DTB in New Orleans, LA

“I’ve been a fan of rosé for a long time,” says Chef Carl Schaubhut of DTB in New Orleans, Louisiana. “It goes well with our Louisiana cuisine and our atmosphere.” DTB is a Cajun acronym for “Down the Bayou.” A native of New Orleans, Chef Schaubhut has taken his home-cooking background and elevated it in both technique and style. “In food and in most wine, you smell what you taste,” says Chef Schaubhut. “But with Provence rosé, the aromatics—and there is no shortage there—are different than what you taste on your tongue. You might smell stone fruit and taste strawberry! As a result, you have this whole sensation [of flavor] in combination. It’s like two wines in one.” “Cajun cooking is heavily spiced, but there is more than heat,” he continues. “We coat the palate with depth of flavor. I paired the Côtes de Provence BY.OTT rosé with a smoked, spiced Andouille pâté complemented by the natural sweetness of a black garlic crouton. These signature Louisiana flavors just start jumping and bouncing around the mouth, and the wines’ tart fruit and good acidity both jumpstart the palate and cut through the rich and sweet elements of the food.” Chef Schaubhut also prepared what he described as a “classic yet refined” cornmeal-fried catfish, paired with Château de L’Escarelle Les Deux Anges rosé from Coteaux Varois en Provence. “Rosé just cuts through all that fried goodness!” he explains. “And to finish . . . a Steen’s Syrup pot de crème with Château Beaulieu rosé from Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence. The custardy richness of the pot de crème fleshes out the mouthfeel and prolongs the wine’s finish.” He admits that while he expected the Provence rosé wines to be very similar, that theory was quickly debunked. “It’s not like there is a thousand miles between appellations,” he says. “But it was exactly the opposite. The wines are full of tiny nuances and those nuances make a big difference.” Enough of a difference that the breadth and depth of these dry, fruit-driven rosé wines can stand up to spicy Andouille, fried fish and a cane syrup pot de crème!

Corn-Fried Catfish Served With Château de L’Escarelle Les Deux Anges Rosé
Created by Chef Carl Schaubhut, DTB, New Orleans, LA

Catfish:
2 lbs. catfish filet
¼ cup yellow mustard

Dredge:
½ cup flour
½ cup cornmeal
½ cup corn flour
½ cup panko bread crumbs
Creole seasoning to taste

Egg salad:
7 boiled eggs, peeled
3 cornichons
3 pickled okra
1 shallot, diced
1 garlic clove
1 Tbsp. mayonnaise
1 Tbsp. yellow mustard
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
⅛ cup lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste

Olive salad:
4 cups pitted queen olives, chopped
1 cup capers
1 large carrot, shaved into ribbons
2 stalks celery, sliced into cross sections
1 large shallot, julienned
1 lemon, zest and juice
6 garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp. red pepper flakes
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup frisée lettuce

Mustard vinaigrette:
1 Tbsp. Creole mustard
¼ cup sugar cane vinegar
¾ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp. shallot, diced
1 garlic clove
1 Tbsp. chives
Salt and pepper to taste

Coat catfish filets with yellow mustard. Let marinate in refrigerator for 30 minutes. Add all ingredients of corn meal dredge in food processor, except Creole seasoning. Pulse until fine and season with Creole seasoning to taste. Set aside.

Place all egg salad ingredients in food processor and pulse until well mixed thoroughly. Place in a mixing bowl and set aside.

Place cane vinegar, mustard, shallots and garlic in food processor. Blend on medium speed for one minute for the mustard vinaigrette. Slowly add oil in steady stream. Finish with chives and set aside.

For the olive salad, coarsely chop olives. Peel large carrot and discard the skin. Continue to peel carrot into thin ribbons, and cut ribbons into 2-inch pieces. Julienne shallot as thin as possible. Chop celery into cross sections as thin as possible. Place evoo in small saute pan on medium-low heat. Add minced garlic and red pepper flakes. Steep for 5 minutes. Take off heat and let cool until room temperature. In a large mixing bowl, add all ingredients. Finish with lemon zest and juice. Mix thoroughly. Place in refrigerator for at least 2 hours.

Take catfish filets out of refrigerator. Coat filets in cornmeal dredge. Fry at 350 degrees Fahrenheit, until fish is cooked through.

To plate, place a spoonful of egg salad on a plate and smear with a spoon. In a mixing bowl, add ½ cup olive salad, frisée, and 1 Tbsp. of mustard vinaigrette. Mix well and add salt and pepper to taste. Place mixed olive salad next to egg salad on plate. Place fried catfish on top of olive salad.

Drizzle more of the mustard vinaigrette on the plate to finish. Serves 4.

 

Sugarcane Pots De Crème Served With Château Beaulieu Rosé
Created by Chef Carl Schaubhut, DTB, New Orleans, LA

1 quart heavy cream
¼ cup brown sugar
1 pinch salt
1¼ cups egg yolk
¼ Tbsp. vanilla extract
½ cup Steen’s cane syrup
1 Tbsp. powdered gelatin

Place ½ cup of cold heavy cream in a small stainless bowl; use the cold cream to bloom the gelatin.

Place the rest of the cream into a large pot with the brown sugar and salt. Place the egg yolks into a medium-sized stainless-steel bowl. Bring the cream and sugar mixture to 100 degrees Fahrenheit, while tempering the yolks with a whisk. Place the mixture into back into the pot and cook on the stove top on low-medium heat.

Add the bloomed gelatin to the cream mixture, and whisk to thoroughly combine. Stir the mixture frequently with a rubber spatula and cook custard to 180 degrees Fahrenheit. Once the custard is cooked, strain with chinois into a bowl that is set over an ice bath and stir to cool.

Once the mixture has cooled down to room temperature, incorporate the Steen’s and vanilla extract. Stir to combine evenly.

To portion custard, fill a 4 oz. Mason jar ¼ inch from the top. Allow to set in the refrigerator. Yields 10 portions.

 

Andouille Pâté Served With Domaines Ott BY.OTT Rosé
Created by Chef Carl Schaubhut, DTB, New Orleans, LA

Meat:
1 ¼ lbs. diced pork butt
¼ lb. bacon
½ lb. chicken liver

Panade:
2 eggs
⅓ cup whole milk
1½ slices sourdough or white bread (no crust)

Spice Blend:
½ Tbsp. ground black pepper
½ Tbsp. cayenne pepper
½ Tbsp. paprika
½ tsp. mustard powder
½ Tbsp. garlic powder
¼ Tbsp. onion powder
1½ Tbsp. salt
½ tsp. Prague curing salt

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