Legacy of Versatility: Pairing Provençal Rosé Wines with Diverse Local Flavors, pt. 4

Executive Chef Bobby Palmquist of The Walrus and the Carpenter in Seattle, WA

by: Lisa M. Airey

Photos by: Joann Arruda

To celebrate and display the diversity of the rosé from Provence, The Clever Root challenged four superstar chefs from across the country to develop signature dishes to pair with these pink sippers. From Cajun cooking in New Orleans, to celebrating the bounty of the Pacific Northwest, these chefs pushed their palates and pairing abilities to the max.

Our fourth and final stop on this journey brings us to The Walrus and the Carpenter in Seattle, Washington, where Executive Chef Bobby Palmquist has artfully constructed the smoked lardo with marionberries, glacier lettuce and agresto served with Château Barbanau L’instant Rosé, Billy’s tomatoes, nectarines, red shiso and grilled rye served with commanderie de la bargemone rosé, grilled spanish sardines with walnut, parsley, and shallot relish served with Chateau Routas Rosé. See part one here, part two here, and part three here.

The menu at The Walrus and the Carpenter in Seattle changes daily, but it consistently sets a table with pure ingredients from both land and sea. Executive Chef Bobby Palmquist was introduced to Provence rosé nearly a decade ago and has been drawn to these wines ever since. “Provence rosés are great with food and great alone,” avows Chef Palmquist. “They are consistently more nuanced than New World rosés; there are more things going on in the bottle! New World rosés tend to be alcohol-heavy and just . . . big. That’s not something I look for when I drink wine.” Chef Palmquist paired Commanderie de la Bargemone rosé from Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence with a grilled tomato and nectarine salad atop a rye bread crouton laced with a tangy smear of shiso aioli. Châ- teau Routas rosé from Coteaux Varois en Provence had the weight to carry grilled sardines topped with walnut/parsley/shallot relish, while Château Barbanau L’Instant rosé from Côtes de Provence had enough vibrant acidity to marry with smoked lardo accented by marionberries and agresto. “I work so that there isn’t a cacophony of flavors in a dish,” says Chef Palmquist. “The tomato salad, for example, only has four ingredients, but each one is chosen for a reason. A lot of thought goes into making everything come together on the plate as one. And wine should contrast or complement. The fat of the lardo is contrasted by the acidity in the berries and in the wine. Yet the wine plays to the same weight as the pork and the wine’s tart grapefruit and red nectarine fruit pairs well with the fruit in the dish. There is an underlying similarity of flavors and both contrast and congruency in this dish.” All the flavors echo, and the ingredients are orchestrated that way. “The different regions in Provence offer such a diverse array of rosés [that] should be people’s everyday wines,” Chef Palmquist says. “There should never be a ‘season’ for drinking rose: It’s a great wine year-round.”

Smoked Lardo With Marionberries, Glacier Lettuce and Agresto Served With Château Barbanau L’Instant Rosé
Created by Executive Chef Bobby Palmquist, The Walrus and the Carpenter, Seattle, WA
Lardo:
Salt a 8–16 oz. pork fatback with 3% salt to the weight of the pork. Leave wrapped in a Ziplock bag for one week. After one week, rinse the pork and dry off. Smoke in a smoker with applewood chips at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for 1 hour. Chill in refrigerator overnight. Cut thinly on a slicer.

To plate, slice fresh marionberries in half. Pick glacier lettuce into bite-size pieces. Set 8–10 thin slices of lardo on the plate, giving it height, and use the marionberries to prop up the slices. Place the glacier lettuce around the plate. Sprinkle with olive oil and agresto. Serve with a few slices of fresh baguette.

 

Billy’s Tomatoes, Nectarines, Red Shiso and Grilled Rye Served With Commanderie de la Bargemone Rosé
Created by Executive Chef Bobby Palmquist, The Walrus and the Carpenter, Seattle, WA
1 fresh tomato per serving
½ fresh nectarine per serving
Red shiso to garnish
1 slice rye bread per serving
Olive oil

For shiso aioli:
1 whole egg
1 egg yolk
Pinch of salt
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
3 cups grape seed oil
¼ cup chopped red shiso

In a food processor, place the eggs, salt, lemon juice and shiso. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the grape seed oil to form an emulsion. Taste for seasoning.

Slice rye bread ½ inch thick. Drizzle with olive oil. Grill on both sides until charred and toasted.

Place rye on bottom of plate. Spread shiso aioli on toast. Cut one medium tomato and half a nectarine into slices and place both covering the rye bread. Garnish with picked red shiso leaves. Sprinkle with olive oil, Espelt Grenache vinegar (or other quality red wine vinegar) and flake salt.

 

Grilled Spanish Sardines With Walnut, Parsley, and Shallot Relish Served With Chateau Routas Rosé
Created by Executive Chef Bobby Palmquist, The Walrus and the Carpenter, Seattle, WA
1 can Matiz Spanish sardines (contains 3–4 fish, represents one serving)

Relish:
¼ cup toasted walnuts, crushed
1 small shallot, minced
¼ cup parsley, chopped
1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
½ Tbsp. Dijon mustard
¼ to ½ cup walnut oil
Salt

For the relish, mix all of the ingredients except the sardines. Taste for seasoning. On a grill or grill pan, cook the sardines until marked on both sides and hot throughout. Place 3–4 sardines on a plate, then spoon the relish over the top.

 

 

 

 

 

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